It’s been a while since I share photos from our garden, but after seeing Kezzie’s post of her own garden, I was inspired to do the same. My dad is a pretty avid gardener, and I’ve been keeping sort of a photographic record of our garden for him, so it’s always fun to look back to see how our plants were doing each year.
This month I only managed to read two new books because I was rereading the complete Sherlock Holmes. Why? Well, it’s like this: I just read a Lovecraftian script for work. Anything Lovecraftian reminds me of Neil Gaiman’s A Study in Emerald, which is essentially Holmes/Cthulhu fanfiction, so I reread that. And then I realized it’s been a while since I read the original A Study in Scarlet, so I reread that, and I figured, might as well reread all the Holmes stories and novels while I’m at it. And that is how a bibliophile’s mind works…
Anyway, onto the two new books I read:
Midnight at the Bright Ideas Bookstore by Michael Sullivan:
I’m a bibliophile (see above), so any book that has to do with bookstores or libraries or writers can catch my interest. This one is essentially a murder mystery set in a bookstore – a homeless young man kills himself in the bookstore he usually frequents, and the bookseller that knows him must confront her own dark past to unravel the mystery of his death. It’s a very quick read and the mystery itself is pretty engaging, but I find the beginning too slow and the resolution a bit too easy, and I didn’t really connect much with the main character. 3/5
The Bear and the Nightingale by Katherine Arden:
This is the third fantasy books I’ve read based on Russian folklore and mythology (after the Shadow and Bone trilogy and Deathless.) I guess I’m just drawn to them because I grew up with Russian fairy tales. Anyway, the plot of this book is quite standard – Vasya, a young girl whose mother dies giving birth to her, inherits some of her mother and grandmother’s otherworldly abilities, and she uses those abilities to protect her village from a dark force. Still, the world of the story feels very authentic, and the characters are well-portrayed. My only complaint is that the ending is a little rushed (I was expecting a more epic journey, but I guess that’s for the sequels). Also, if I have to read that Vasya’s stepmother “shrilled” or “shrieked” once more, I’m going to shriek too. 4/5
I wasn’t going to write packing post for this trip, but then I realized that, like every aspect of traveling to Cuba, packing for Cuba also has its own specificities that I’d like to share with you. Plus, any excuse to post more Cuba photos, right? 😀
So, for 10 days in Cuba, here is what I packed:
– Tops: 5 T-shirts, 1 long-sleeved shirt, 1 chambray shirt (it was so hot that I went through these faster than I thought, so I had to do laundry a couple of times.)
– Bottoms: 2 linen pants, 2 lightweight jeans, 1 dress (the dress was strictly for SIA, but it came in handy when I was too lazy to wash my tops.)
– Outerwear: 1 cardigan, 1 sweater, 1 light jacket (though I never wore the sweater and the jacket in Cuba. We transferred flights in Moscow, so they were for keeping warm inside the airport/on the plane.)
– Shoes: 1 pair of sneakers, 1 pair of sandals, 1 pair of flip-flops (for the beach/walking around the casa.)
– Accessories: 2 hats (1 baseball cap and 1 straw hat I bought in Trinidad), 3 scarves. These are life-savers; I used them to cover up from the sun and the big one was used as a sarong when we went to the beach. They can also double up as face masks in dusty/smoggy places. We got some funny looks walking around Havana with scarves wrapped around our faces, but trust me, your nose, throat, and lungs are going to thank you.
– Don’t bring anything too nice, anything you don’t want to sweat through or get sand or dirt on. If you’re planning to go dancing, maybe bring a cute dress, but honestly, it’s all very casual.
– I know it’s hot, but don’t bring just tank tops and shorts if you don’t want to be burned to a sizzle. The sun is relentless, even during February.
– Pack all the toiletries, make-up, and medications you’re going to need. You won’t be able to buy them here. And sunscreen. A lot of sunscreen.
– Bring hand sanitizer and tissue/toilet paper. Bathrooms in Cuba are not the cleanest, so it’s better to be prepared.
– Pack some detergent if you’re going to do laundry. Most casas provide laundry service, but it can be expensive.
Trinidad is often called the second biggest tourist trap in Cuba, after the seaside resort of Varadero. While that doesn’t sound very positive, it is also easy to see why tourists flock here. It has a little bit of everything – colorful colonial buildings, beaches, mountains, waterfalls, and lush farmlands. It is like a miniature Cuba, all packed in a small town. And just because it’s a tourist trap doesn’t mean that you should skip it either.
Our drive from Cienfuegos to Trinidad was the shortest – only 1.5 hours – but for once I wish it was longer, because it was breathtaking. The shared taxi took us through wide pastures with a blue mountain range in the distance, and the sea peeking in every once in a while in a series of pretty little coves. I’m still kicking myself for not asking the driver to stop the car for a photo, but then again, if we stopped whenever there was a photo op along the way, the drive would take twice as long.
We checked into our casa, Casa El Ceramista, so called because the host, Alexey, is a ceramic artist. Be warned: the family has a super cute dog and you may spend so much time playing with him that you forget to see the town.
As it was still early, we decided to go on an excursion to the Topes de Collantes National Park for some hiking. The host got us a taxi to the park (50 CUC round-trip). The drive was insane – all up and down and crazy curves – and the driver never slowed down, but thankfully, we got to stop at a viewpoint and see all the way down the valley to the sea, so the near-death experience was worth it. Just don’t go with a full stomach.
We then hiked to Salto del Caburni, one of the most famous waterfalls of the area (it costs 10 CUC/person to get in). The hike isn’t that difficult, but very steep, so it’s murder on your knees. Bring water and some snacks, you’ll need it.
The waterfall itself is beautiful – a white cascade tumbling down into a jade-green pool, surrounded by towering trees. You can swim there, but the water was too cold for us, so I contented myself with just dipping my toes in.
After we got back into town, we walked to the Old Town for a bite to eat. It was crawling with tourists, so we ducked around the side street until we came to Plaza Mayor. We went up the bell tower of the Convento de San Francisco to watch the sunset, before retreating to a restaurant nearby. Trinidad supposedly has a hopping nightlife, but we were wiped out after our hike, so we just had dinner and went back to the casa to sleep.
The next morning, we went into town early to avoid the crowd, turning down any alley that caught our eyes. It is literally impossible to take a bad photo here – the houses look like a box of Crayola, and there is something worth photographing around every corner. When the crowd started building up and the sun became hotter, we went into the various museums and galleries around Plaza Mayor, including Palacio Cantero, which is a mansion-turned-museum on the ground floor and offers the best view from its tower.
In the afternoon, we continued to wander away from the Old Town and saw more of the “real” side of Trinidad, such as…
A newspaper seller and a vegetable seller
Then, in an attempt to escape the crowd, we walk 3 km out of town to a “Welcome to Trinidad” sign with a replica of the Manaca Iznaga tower (a tower in the nearby Valley of the Sugar Mills, originally built to observe and control the slaves working in the fields.) We had to walk along the highway, but the road wasn’t busy, and clearly we had the right idea, because after we took photos of the sign, several cars stopped for photos as well!
We went back into town for dinner, and spent the rest of the evening wandering around Plaza Mayor enjoying the atmosphere. You can go into one of the restaurants/pubs for drinks, but we opted for the cheaper version from one of the many stalls lining the street (it tasted fine to me, but what do I know?) There is also Disco Ayala, a nightclub inside a cave just outside of town, but the thought of hiking up a hill at 11 PM didn’t sound very appealing to us. It is the one thing on my “to do” list that I didn’t regret skipping. I guess we are old ladies after all.
And then, it was another 5-hour drive back to Havana, one more day in a flurry of souvenir shopping and packing, and, all too soon, our trip was over. Adiós Cuba! It has been absolutely wonderful, and I hope I can return one day.
Sandwiched between the two more famous destinations, Playa Larga (Long Beach) and Trinidad, Cienfuegos is often overlooked by travelers in Cuba, but I think it’s a mistake. This small city is dubbed “the Pearl of the South” for a reason, and there are plenty to see and do here if you know where to look.
The ride from Viñales to Cienfuegos was the longest in our trip – nearly 7 hours. We were picked up by a taxi, driven to a station outside Havana, and changed to a different car (you just pay the full amount to the first driver). The couple who shared the taxi with us was going to Playa Larga, so we had to do a little detour, but I didn’t mind, because the drive from Playa Larga to Cienfuegos was exceptionally pretty – windswept forest on one side, dazzling turquoise water and pure white sand on the other.
Cienfuegos is very pretty too – lots of colonial-styled buildings, like a smaller, more tranquil Havana with a French twist (it is, after all, the only city in Cuba settled by French immigrants.) Our casa, Hostal Colonial D+D, is in one of these houses – it may look small on the outside, but the inside is huge and very airy. The host, Diley, told us that we were only the second set of Vietnamese guests she ever had, which made us feel quite special.
As usual, after checking in, we went out to acquaint ourselves with the town. Cienfuegos is laid out in a grid, so it’s very easy to navigate. We walked along the main boulevard running through the center of town and came to the main square with its neoclassical buildings.
However, a dark cloud was building up on the horizon and it was getting late, so we didn’t linger at the square but pushed on to the Malecón, where we could find a place to eat. The rain still caught us by surprise – it was supposed to be the dry season, dammit! – and we had to duck into the first restaurant we saw. After an early dinner and with the rain showing no sign of stopping, we decided to call it a night. We were having an early start the next day anyway – we were going on a flamingo-watching tour!
The next morning, we were picked up at 7:30 by a taxi (the driver lives right next door to our casa) and driven to the entrance to Guanaroca Lagoon. Our host had made a reservation for us, so we were able to skip the ticket line and joined the first tour group, which left at 8. After a short walk through a woodland area, we arrived at the dock, where the boats were waiting. Three persons went into each boat, and off we went.
We only saw a few common water birds at first, like herons and pelicans, and the flamingos were just a few pale dots in the distance. But then we rounded a corner, and suddenly there they were, in a pink line against the green mangroves. A hush settled over us as we watched them walk in a group, slender and graceful, dipping their heads into the water to feed, their vivid plumage reflecting on the mirror surface of the lagoon.
We got closer, and suddenly there was a rush as the flamingos all took off into the sky like a pink cloud, circling around us before settling down on the far side of the lagoon. Everybody must’ve been holding their breath, because we all breathed out and exclaimed “That was amazing!” I think it was as close to a natural high (in every sense of the phrase) as you can get.
Afterward, the taxi driver took us to the nearby Rancho Luna beach. Here is the turquoise water and white sand we saw on the drive from Playa Larga. It looked so inviting that even I had to venture in, although I couldn’t actually step into the sea (can’t swim, remember?) I just sat on the edge of the water and let the waves wash over me. We had lunch at a restaurant by the beach, where I got adopted by a very friendly cat. The driver then picked us up again and drove us back into town. The whole trip cost just 25 CUC (plus 10 CUC each for the boat tour.)
In the afternoon, we continued our sightseeing that was disrupted by the rain the previous day. We went into the Tomas Terry Theater, but while it was interesting in an imagine-what-it-was-like-in-the-19th-century kind of way, the entrance fee was too expensive (5 CUC). Instead, go across the square to the Palacio Ferrer, a former mansion and House of Culture. It was under renovation when we were there, but you could still walk around and admire its eclectic architecture.
The cathedral’s bell tower and the statue of Jose Marti on the main square
We also checked out the city’s provincial museum, with its odd assortment of decorative and historical artifacts, thrown haphazardly into a building that still retains a faint echo of its former glory. We were the only visitors around. It was all weirdly charming, like an abandoned castle.
We ended our day by watching the spectacular sunset over the Malecón.
I would’ve added another day in Cienfuegos because there were still so many things that I’d like to see (the botanical garden, El Nicho waterfalls, the Naval Museum), but alas, I made the schedule before I knew what an enchanting place it is. Until next time, I hope…
As promised, here is the book review post of March. It’s all fiction this month, but unfortunately, I didn’t really enjoy any of them 😦
Three Men in a Boat (to Say Nothing of the Dog) by Jerome K. Jerome:
I was going to read this during my Cuba trip – it is a humorous travelogue about three friends (and their dog) who decide to take a boating trip down the Thames, which would make the perfect travel read. But in the end, I chose Bill Bryson’s book, so I didn’t read this until now. It’s quite enjoyable if you’re into British humor (which I am), but my problem with it is the weird inconsistency in the tone – between the humorous and sarcastic observations, there would be some horrible purple prose mixed in. At first, I thought it was supposed to be satire, but then toward the end, there is this scene in which the characters find the body of a woman who drowned herself and the narrator muses about what might have happened to her, and I don’t know if I was supposed to laugh or cry. It’s really strange. 3/5
The History of Bees by Maja Lunde:
I was offered a chance to translate this book, and as its blurb compares it to Station Eleven, which I love, I decided to check it out. It contains three interwoven stories, one set in England in 1852, one in the US in 2007, and one in a dystopian China in 2098, revolving around three characters whose lives are defined and changed by bees and beekeeping. It sounds interesting, and I could see where the Station Eleven comparison comes from, but this is nowhere near as captivating and touching as Station Eleven. I had a hard time identifying with any of the characters, William, the 19th-century character, downright annoys me, with his self-absorption and constant whining. This is what happened when you started out with a theme and built the story to fit it, instead of letting the story and the characters speak for themselves. (I’m still going to translate it though.) 2.5/5
Red Rising by Pierce Brown:
I’ve been wanting to read this for a while, but I guess I’ve waited too long and now I’ve grown out of the whole YA dystopian genre. I wouldn’t even bother with a summary because it is just like every other YA dystopian novel – a bit of The Hunger Games, a bit of Divergent, a bit of The Maze Runner. And yes, of course it is part 1 of a trilogy. Sure, it’s set on Mars and the story is more violent than most YA novels, but it’s the same “plucky teen overthrowing tyrannical government” plot. Read one and you’ve read them all. I think that’s why I liked the Six of Crows series so much, because the plot is like a breath of fresh air compared to the usual YA stuff. 2/5
What did you guys read this month?
If you think Cuba is all colonial towns and beaches, think again. Viñales, 2.5 hours west of Havana, is a valley and natural reserve nestled amongst limestone mountains that will show you the natural side of Cuba. When I talked to some friends who had gone to Cuba before for some tips, they all said “Oh, it’s really boring, there’s nothing there,” but I’m glad I didn’t listen, because Viñales turns out to be one of my favorite places in Cuba.
We were picked up from our casa in Havana in a modern minivan, which was a nice surprise. The town of Viñales itself is tiny and rather reminds me of the ethic villages I saw in Buon Ma Thuot, with the red dirt tracks, the small, colorful bungalows lining the streets, and the mountains in the distance. We were dropped off at our casa, Casa Estrella y Celestino, and greeted by the host, Sady. She runs the place with the help of her parents and her sisters, and during our short stay there, we really felt like a part of the family.
Per Sady’s suggestion, we decided to go on a horse-riding tour that afternoon (25 CUC/person, for 3-5 hours). Neither of us have ridden before, but we thought, how hard can it be? Boy, were we wrong. We did not know what we were in for as we blithely followed the guide to the horse farm, but as I climbed on my horse, I began to feel something was not right – the horses were on the small side, yet our legs could not reach the stirrups.
And thus began our ordeal. Every time the horses broke into anything faster than a sedate walk, we would be jolted so violently that it was all we could do to hang on for dear life. The horses were very gentle and knew the way so well that we could have just sat there and they would have taken us where we needed to go. In fact, it was our clumsy handling of the horses that made it worse. The valley is gorgeous, but I didn’t see a lot of it because I was terrified of falling off.
We got some brief repose at the Mural de la Prehistoria (not a real prehistoric mural, but rather a mural inspired by the theory of evolution, painted in 1961). You can pay a fee to go up to it, but we chose not to – you could see it much better from afar anyway.
Later, we stopped at a tobacco farm and learned about the cigar making process, and had our first taste of a Cuban cigar (well, my friend did.)
When the tour was done, I came away with a giant bruise on my hip (from getting hit by my camera) and mad respect for all riders.
The next day, determined to see the valley in a less painful manner, we rented two bikes (10 CUC/person for the whole day) and rode around. This time we got to see more of the lush farmland and the mountains surrounding the valley, called mogotes, or haystacks (it’s the same kind of mountains in our Ha Long Bay – some travelers we met even said Viñales was like Ha Long Bay on land!)
Along the way, we met two kids, started chatting with them in a mix of English and Spanish, and they ended up taking us on an informal tour of the valley.
We went to a lake on the other side of town, in the Valle del Silencio (Valley of Silence) and visited a nearby cave. There were moments when I wondered what we were doing, following two kids we just met through a dark cave that lead to God knows where, but it was fun. They were nice kids, and afterward, one of them even took us home, where his mom gave us a refreshing drink from their well. I really wish my Spanish were better so I could talk more with them and learn more about their lives.
It’s a rock that looks like Fidel Castro!
At 5 PM, we bid the kids farewell and returned the bikes to town. Then, apparently we hadn’t exerted ourselves enough, so we decided to walk to the Horizontes Los Jazmines hotel, which is said to have the best view of the valley, to watch the sunset. You can go there by taxi, but we saw that it was only 3 km, and so, armed with the offline maps.me app, we went on our way.
The road was fine at first – mostly footpaths through farmland, but walkable. But then it got rougher and sketchier, until we were picking our ways through brambles, horse crap, and, on one memorable occasion, a dead bird. My feet were covered in so much red dust that it looked like I had some horrible skin disease. We could see the hotel like a pink mirage in the distance, but the slope just got steeper and steeper, and I was practically on my hands and knees, cursing maps.me and our own hubris, wheezing, “This view had better be worth it!”
And then we made it to the top.
We rewarded ourselves with a huge meal in the restaurant next door and a taxi home (only 5 CUC for the whole ride), because let’s face it, there was no effing way we were walking back through those fields in the dark. But, as hard as that hike was, I’m glad we did it. It made us appreciate the view at the top that much more.