Russia Diary #4: Murmansk part IPosted: March 6, 2020
We went to Murmansk with the sole purpose of hunting for the Aurora, so we didn’t think much about what else to do there. In truth, there isn’t much to do in Murmansk, period. The top two “things to do” in Murmansk, according to Tripadvisor, is to visit a nuclear icebreaker ship, but after I read Midnight in Chernobyl, you can’t pay me enough to go near anything nuclear, and “Alyosha”, a World War II monument which we could kind of see from the window of our Airbnb apartment, so it doesn’t hold much interest for us.
Murmansk may not have a ton of tourist attractions, but it does have one thing – snow. A lot of snow. And snow, I find, is a great beautifier. You can take any depressing Soviet bloc city – and Murmansk is certainly not going to win any beauty contest – and bury it in a foot of snow, and it’ll look pretty and pristine and romantic. So we spent a lot of time just walking around and taking photos. When it got too cold, we would simply duck into a coffee shop or go to the mall.
The one tourist “activity” we did, other than hunting for the Aurora, is to visit a husky farm, Ulybka Alyaski. There are different husky farms around Murmansk, but this is the best one, since the dogs are trained for sled-racing, not for tourists; opening the farm for tourists is just their way of making money for the dogs. The staff is very friendly – we showed up without knowing that you need to pre-book a tour (there are trips of different lengths that you can go on the sleds – 3km, 5km, and 600m), but they fit us in for a short trip anyway.
In the end, we were glad we didn’t go on a longer sledding trip, because we weren’t dressed for it, and a short trip still gave us a taste of what dog sledding is like. Afterward, we had a lot of fun playing with the dogs (not just the sled dogs but also other breeds like the Finnish Lapphund, traditionally used for herding reindeers) and warming up in the cabin with tea and cookies.
Stay tuned for the next part of our Murmansk adventure – the Aurora hunts!