Cuba Diary #4: CienfuegosPosted: April 6, 2018
Sandwiched between the two more famous destinations, Playa Larga (Long Beach) and Trinidad, Cienfuegos is often overlooked by travelers in Cuba, but I think it’s a mistake. This small city is dubbed “the Pearl of the South” for a reason, and there are plenty to see and do here if you know where to look.
The ride from Viñales to Cienfuegos was the longest in our trip – nearly 7 hours. We were picked up by a taxi, driven to a station outside Havana, and changed to a different car (you just pay the full amount to the first driver). The couple who shared the taxi with us was going to Playa Larga, so we had to do a little detour, but I didn’t mind, because the drive from Playa Larga to Cienfuegos was exceptionally pretty – windswept forest on one side, dazzling turquoise water and pure white sand on the other.
Cienfuegos is very pretty too – lots of colonial-styled buildings, like a smaller, more tranquil Havana with a French twist (it is, after all, the only city in Cuba settled by French immigrants.) Our casa, Hostal Colonial D+D, is in one of these houses – it may look small on the outside, but the inside is huge and very airy. The host, Diley, told us that we were only the second set of Vietnamese guests she ever had, which made us feel quite special.
As usual, after checking in, we went out to acquaint ourselves with the town. Cienfuegos is laid out in a grid, so it’s very easy to navigate. We walked along the main boulevard running through the center of town and came to the main square with its neoclassical buildings.
However, a dark cloud was building up on the horizon and it was getting late, so we didn’t linger at the square but pushed on to the Malecón, where we could find a place to eat. The rain still caught us by surprise – it was supposed to be the dry season, dammit! – and we had to duck into the first restaurant we saw. After an early dinner and with the rain showing no sign of stopping, we decided to call it a night. We were having an early start the next day anyway – we were going on a flamingo-watching tour!
The next morning, we were picked up at 7:30 by a taxi (the driver lives right next door to our casa) and driven to the entrance to Guanaroca Lagoon. Our host had made a reservation for us, so we were able to skip the ticket line and joined the first tour group, which left at 8. After a short walk through a woodland area, we arrived at the dock, where the boats were waiting. Three persons went into each boat, and off we went.
We only saw a few common water birds at first, like herons and pelicans, and the flamingos were just a few pale dots in the distance. But then we rounded a corner, and suddenly there they were, in a pink line against the green mangroves. A hush settled over us as we watched them walk in a group, slender and graceful, dipping their heads into the water to feed, their vivid plumage reflecting on the mirror surface of the lagoon.
We got closer, and suddenly there was a rush as the flamingos all took off into the sky like a pink cloud, circling around us before settling down on the far side of the lagoon. Everybody must’ve been holding their breath, because we all breathed out and exclaimed “That was amazing!” I think it was as close to a natural high (in every sense of the phrase) as you can get.
Afterward, the taxi driver took us to the nearby Rancho Luna beach. Here is the turquoise water and white sand we saw on the drive from Playa Larga. It looked so inviting that even I had to venture in, although I couldn’t actually step into the sea (can’t swim, remember?) I just sat on the edge of the water and let the waves wash over me. We had lunch at a restaurant by the beach, where I got adopted by a very friendly cat. The driver then picked us up again and drove us back into town. The whole trip cost just 25 CUC (plus 10 CUC each for the boat tour.)
In the afternoon, we continued our sightseeing that was disrupted by the rain the previous day. We went into the Tomas Terry Theater, but while it was interesting in an imagine-what-it-was-like-in-the-19th-century kind of way, the entrance fee was too expensive (5 CUC). Instead, go across the square to the Palacio Ferrer, a former mansion and House of Culture. It was under renovation when we were there, but you could still walk around and admire its eclectic architecture.
The cathedral’s bell tower and the statue of Jose Marti on the main square
We also checked out the city’s provincial museum, with its odd assortment of decorative and historical artifacts, thrown haphazardly into a building that still retains a faint echo of its former glory. We were the only visitors around. It was all weirdly charming, like an abandoned castle.
We ended our day by watching the spectacular sunset over the Malecón.
I would’ve added another day in Cienfuegos because there were still so many things that I’d like to see (the botanical garden, El Nicho waterfalls, the Naval Museum), but alas, I made the schedule before I knew what an enchanting place it is. Until next time, I hope…