Cuba Diary #2: HavanaPosted: March 23, 2018
Havana is a city of contrast. It’s the contrast between the constant noise of traffic and the tranquility of people chatting to each other from their doorways, between the grandeur of Parque Central and the crumbling buildings of Habana Centro, between the historical Habana Vieja (Old Havana) and the bustling new town, Vedado. It’s hard to fall in love with, but it has a charm that sneaks up on you and draws you in.
We spent 4 days in Havana, 3 when we first arrived and 1 before our flight back. For the first 3 days, we stayed at Carlos Palace. It is right on the edge of Habana Centro and Vedado, so it has the best of both worlds – quiet and still within walking distance of everything. The host, Cary, doesn’t speak English, but she is very warm and helpful – she picked us up at the airport, took us to get our money exchanged, and generally treated us like two visiting nieces.
After checking in, we walked to the center of Havana, both to beat jetlag and to orient ourselves with the city. The walk took us right through Centro Habana. I wouldn’t recommend it for your first day in Havana, because it is not the touristy part of town and can look a bit rough (though never unsafe). The buildings are rundown and the streets are filled with exhaust fumes. On the other hand, you get to see the real side of Havana and how the locals live, which is great.
Cuba still has a food ration system, so we saw a lot of locals queuing up for their daily rations. It must be a strange sight to the average Western tourist, but for us Vietnamese, it’s just like traveling back in time to Vietnam during the 1970’s and 1980’s.
That doesn’t mean that everything was rationed – we also passed a market place, and there were plenty of carts selling fruits and vegetables on the streets.
Finally, we stumbled upon Parque Central, the main hub of Havana, where most of the grand buildings are located. It was quite something to come out of the Centro area and see these buildings gleaming in the sunset.
The next day, we went on a more proper walking tour of Habana Vieja. My friend knows a Vietnamese student studying journalism in Havana, so we got ourselves a guide. We saw El Capitolio (sadly still under renovation and not yet open to the public), took a tour of the Alicia Alonso Theater (we wanted to see a ballet there – Cuba ballet dancers are renown worldwide – but the shows are only during the weekend), poked around in the Museum of Fine Arts, and walked to the four squares of Habana Vieja – Plaza Vieja, Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral, and Plaza de San Francisco.
A tree growing out of an abandoned building right behind El Capitolio
And the interior, with a statue of Alicia Alonso herself
The Spanish influence is much clearer in the architecture of Habana Vieja, but you never forget you’re in Cuba thanks to the sound of music everywhere and the women dressed in colorful traditional garbs posing at every corner.
On Parque Central, we also met a nice man working a homemade pinhole camera and had him take a photo of us. For 2 CUC, it’s truly a one-of-a-kind souvenir!
On our third day, we did the touristy thing and went on a classic car tour, which we booked on Airbnb for convenience’s sake (we knew the guide speaks English and it saves us from having to bargain with the driver, like we would if we just picked a car on the street.) The tour took us to places that we would not be able to walk to – Hotel Nacional, Plaza de la Revolucion, Parque Almendares (a riverside urban forest), El Morro castle, and the statue of Christ of Havana across the bay – and was a great lesson about the history of Havana.
The guide and driver were also super obliging – they drove us to a restaurant for lunch, waited for us, and later dropped us off at Coppelia, a famous ice cream parlor chain in Cuba.
When we came back to Havana before our flight home, we decided to stay closer to Habana Centro for easier souvenir shopping. Our casa is in a beautiful, spacious colonial building, and we quite enjoyed waking up to the hustle and bustle of Habana Centro in the morning.
There are still a few things I would’ve liked to do and to see (watch the cannon ceremony at El Morro at 9 PM, go to Fusterlandia, a neighborhood-turned-folk art gallery, and watch sunset over Havana from across the bay), but we didn’t feel like rushing things on the last day, so instead we just took it easy, walked along the Malecon, picked up some souvenirs, and returned to the casa early to pack.
Hey, you have to leave something for next time, right? Because I certainly hope there will be a next time, some day.